Monoleaf Pad Thread (Part Number and HowTo Inside)

[GP1138]

So, I hear about these things all the time, I need them, but I've never seen a pic, and they're just about mythical. I finally picked some up today, and decided to post pictures of the final product.

I need to know how exactly to install these things. Do you put the thing so it's straddling the top of the knuckle, or some other way??

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GP1138/pucks1.jpg
The cat is my parents', his name is Chester.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GP1138/puck2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GP1138/puck3.jpg

[5speedz34]

They go at the ends of the monoleaf and the leaf goes into those slots. There are those and the "oem" looking ones that you need to glue and are $40 bucks.

[19Cutlass94]

5speedz34, he got those from NAPA, about 20 bucks.

[5speedz34]

No I know he did, I saw the box NAPA also sells the glue type ones in their help type section.

Davis, I didn't know they went in their like that! I'm suprised.

[cutlsp]

my local napa stores don't carry MOOG parts :bash:

[GP1138]

my local napa stores don't carry MOOG parts :bash:

It's not a Moog part, I forget who made it, something decent though. Cost me $12.

[1990lumina]

I might invest in a set of those when I'm replacing my rear struts as well.....get my ass end back to normal height

[GP1138]

*sigh* New problem:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GP1138/ml3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GP1138/ml2.jpg
The arrow is pointing to the strut, which is like a quarter-inch from the monoleaf. The problem is the monoleaf will not clear the strut, and I have no clearance to put the damn thing in. I don't understand how exactly I'm going to do this.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GP1138/ml1.jpg

On a more lighthearted note, the car is looking like Matt's (soon to be Carri's) GP, the rear end looks jacked up to hell. :lol:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GP1138/jacked.jpg

[White93z34]

aw hell just sawzall that part of the monoleaf, you don't need it :lol:

seriously, you could try disconnecting the trailing arm and moving it out of the way so you can get a little more area to get the jack in

[GP1138]

Bump.

[DiscoStudd]

Put a block of wood under the leaf close as you can get to the knuckle (make sure it fits between the lateral links) and get your jack right up under the block of wood and jack away. It looks like your old pad still has some girth to it, so you don't really need to jack it up that much.

Are your struts shot? Mine were when I changed out the pads, and I had to pull down on the whole knuckle assembly (due to the "no charge" situation of the struts, they weren't pressing down like they were supposed to) after I jacked up the leaf...

[5speedz34]

Jack it up, and then slide it in there use a hammer if need be.

[Crazy K]

When you install these blocks does that mean the leaf will be so high it may interfere with the strut??? I'd like to pick up these same blocks for my lumina... but it rides low primarily cause I carry lots of tools... I would not want to overstress it and have it break.....

[DiscoStudd]

When you install these blocks does that mean the leaf will be so high it may interfere with the strut??? No, not at all. It brings it right up to the correct position that the leaf sits when it left the factory...

[DiscoStudd]

Check it:

http://www.likeabigdog.com/regal/moogpad1.jpg

http://www.likeabigdog.com/regal/moogpad2.jpg

[GP1138]

My struts are Monroe Sensatracs and have around 15k or so on them, I think.

[Brian P]

Check it:


(OT) How do you like the MXM4's??

[DiscoStudd]

Check it:


(OT) How do you like the MXM4's??So far so good. They grip the road decently in dry weather, and aren't too terrible in the rain, although there's room for improvement. Haven't had them out in the snow at all, so I couldn't tell ya how they do whilst sloshing through the white stuff. Next time around, I'll probably buy something more suited to "maximum summer performance" instead...

[GP1138]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GP1138/DONE1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GP1138/DONE2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GP1138/DONE3.jpg
What was left of the old pads and what I had to use to remove them. :bash:

I had to remove the trailing arm like Chris mentioned and I jacked up the monoleaf.

Thanks everyone for your help. I'm going to go out and test and enjoy my properly leveled car.

[DaveFromColorado]

Funny that I looked at this topic today, cause while I was under my Regal I took a look at the pads, and they're brand new under there!

Altho I'd have never thought to look if it weren't for this topic.

--Dave.

[GP1138]

Grr.. it still sags a little when accellerating, but that may be because of the new 2 Ton floor jack I bought today. :lol: I gotta get a couple people to sit in my backseat to see if the tires still rub. :lol: :lol:

[White93z34]

i hope that fixed it, or at very least brought it CLOSE to proper ride height.

[GP1138]

i hope that fixed it, or at very least brought it CLOSE to proper ride height.

Drove it extensively last night, and I am very pleased. It's so much more pleasing to drive, it doesn't sag much on accelleration, and braking and turning are so much better, it doesn't handle like shit anymore!!

I SO HAPPY!!>!>!M<@

[5speedz34]

We need pics of the ride height!

[GP1138]

We need pics of the ride height!

I'll get some today, and I'll have 'em up tonight.

Next project: rear bumper and trunk hole drilling/taillight sealing. My trunk is an absolute damp mess. I can't wait for spring.

[GP1138]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GP1138/DSC01648.jpg
My car is dirty as hell, but NO SAG!!!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GP1138/DSC01651.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GP1138/DSC01652.jpg

Like I said, the bumper is next. It looks like 200lb of bird shit.

[5speedz34]

Awesome!

What's wrong with the bumper?

[GP1138]

What's wrong with the bumper?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GP1138/DSCF1094_1.jpg

[White93z34]

i'll keep an eye out for you john, i swear i see tons of GPs same color as yours in junkyards all the time.

[Crazy K]

when you get a new one.... save the old valence for me!!!!! I only need it to section it!!!!

[Brian P]

it's a dual exhaust smash-out! :?

[luminal67]

I bought a set of those white blocks that go under the leaf spring ends. Kind of a pain to get in, but nothing a hammer won't fix.

how well have these worked for those who have installed them? ride height, noise, whatever.

[luminal67]

the hard block ones

[tdaye]

they are what i've used on both my Cutlass, only replaced them once and I can say that they are quiet. I would think the raise the car ever so slightly compaired to the rubber pads that were on originaly.I wasn't aware that you could get anything other then them for replacements.

[luminal67]

yea, i am kinda sitting higher in the rear now. Guess i'll have to get some subs or something to weigh down the rear. :biggrin:

[tdaye]

sand bags in the trunk :rolleyes:

[Lee]

It managed to level my car out from it's saggy rear, about 1/2 inch rise I's say. I was already running a size smaller tires in front [my ABS loves me]. Wish I had high rear end problems. I'd rather that than rear sag. Makes it look getto with a car full of drivebyers.

It is really bad when I bring home a thousand pounds of retaining wall blocks. Sits on the rubber bumpers then....I try not to do that a lot. Last year I brought home over 4 thousand pounds of block in four trips. Now I try to stick to 12 bags of ceder mulch at a time. Much less stressful.

[Navybass]

I was looking at another thread and there were some white monoleaf pads that you put at the ends of the monoleaf to bring the rear end of the car back up to normal ride height. Where can I get some? I really need them.

[Supreme Cutlass]

I was looking at another thread and there were some white monoleaf pads that you put at the ends of the monoleaf to bring the rear end of the car back up to normal ride height. Where can I get some? I really need them.

NAPA

[jmoss21]

how does one install there my car is sagging

[GP1138]

http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php/topic,39878.0.html

SEARCH. This is the second thread about this on this page.

I did them on my car and they look like a pain in the ass but they're not. You'll want to remove the bolts and nuts for the traling arm and swing it out of the way. Put a block of wood on your jack and carefully jack up the monoleaf on each side. Scrape the remaining pieces of pad out with a flatblade screwdriver or something, I had to use a hacksaw myself. Then just hammer the monoleaf helper pads in there underneath the monoleaf. Voila, you're done.

[Lee]

I just jacked up the monoleaf, using a support board so as not to damage the fiberglass monoleaf, rounded the front edge of the plastic block with a grinder, and wedged them in. One side was tough because the rubber pad on the monoleaf was still there. I greased up the top of the block and tapped it in.

I removed nothing.

[UWISHU1]

would replacing these remove the annoying suspension squeak from the back?

[Crazy K]

would replacing these remove the annoying suspension squeak from the back?

Only if the noise you hear is the ends of the monoleaf rubbing on the the spindle/knuckle assembly.

[kanwisch]

Good write-up GP1138. Makes my future work easier :thumb:

[kaptnjack]

I have recently purchased the isolators but have yet to install them.

For my 93 cutty ragtop.

I found them at O'reilly auto Parts

Monoleaf spring Isolator Pads
Moog Part K6544
Lifetime warranty
$19.99 plus tax for a pair.

[rockfangd]

i just did mine a few days ago and even with removing the wheels and checking my brakes it took 10 minutes :mrgreen:

[jake63]

I did mine on 94 cutty. You can use a 6" c-clamp and block of wood from leaf to bottom strut bracket to raise leaf. You should definitely remove the old rubber ones first ( i used a putty knife ). Then just smack these in with a hammer and length of 3/4 thick wood. The slots, however, face down. They are available from rock auto online also, part# K6544 made by Moog. In suspension under "transverse spring isolator pad"

[rockfangd]

that is exactly what i did. everything :mrgreen:

[shyguy164]

I just installed my 2nd set of these blocks. They "only" last like 50k miles or so. Someone said on the the slots face up and the end of the spring goes into them, that is not true, they go the other way. My mechanic didn't know about these, he tried to sell me the new rubber ones for like $75 installed.

[Timm]

I put my pads in and one shattered...

Well, a giant chip felw off of it and almost hit me. :noman:

about fingernail sized.

:thinking: and also :duckwtc:

[Brian P]

that's a first!

[notsoslimshady76]

Fun fact, I have 2 monoleaf pads stacked on top of each other on each side. The rear is still low :lol:

[Brian P]

Fun fact,&#160; I have 2 monoleaf pads stacked on top of each other on each side. The rear is still low&#160; :lol:


How the heck did you get THAT to fit? :willynilly:

[GP4U2NV]

I installed these last night.

Took 10 minutes a side.

[Garrett Powered]

went to my buddies shop the other day and he was completely baffled by them. he even swapped out a monoleaf for me in the past so he knows how to do it. I never have done one so I don't know. he was like "look there is no way! wanna try?" because I was like its easy, just pound it in with a hammer. thats what everyone is doing, takes like 10 minutes. He just laughed and I said never mind and left.

Oh well, I think I am just going to get some kyb gr2 struts and install my birchmount 2" drop steel spring all at the same time.

[Brian P]

went to my buddies shop the other day and he was completely baffled by them. he even swapped out a monoleaf for me in the past so he knows how to do it. I never have done one so I don't know. he was like "look there is no way!&#160; wanna try?" because I was like its easy, just pound it in with a hammer. thats what everyone is doing, takes like 10 minutes. He just laughed and I said never mind and left.

Oh well, I think I am just going to get some kyb gr2 struts and install my birchmount 2" drop steel spring all at the same time.


That's what I'm saying... I had to remove the monoleaf spring, and chisel off EVERY trace of the old rubber end mount before those pucks even came close to sliding in... Even after all that, I think I had to lightly grind some of the puck material off before it sat in the knuckle correctly.

[Schurkey]

I acknowledge that this is an old thread, but the title is perfect for future searches...and it's how "I" found it.

Thought I'd show you how I installed the aftermarket nylon pads. Took two hours to stare into space "inventing" the tool, actually fabricating the tool, and driving to the hardware store for fully-threaded bolts. Took about ten minutes per side to actually install the plastic pads once I had the vehicle ('93 Lumina) lifted up with the wheels hanging free.

The first set of nylon pads I looked at were absolutely destroyed when we opened the package at the local NAPA. Someone had tried to install them, brutalized them beyond belief and then PUT THEM BACK IN THE BOX AND RETURNED THEM TO THE STORE. If you're a Total Moron and live in the Seasonally Frozen Wastelands, you're probably my down-the-street neighbor. Good thing my local NAPA had two sets in stock. I left with the second set.

Spring compressor tool requires:
24" of channel steel, cut 10" (two pieces) and the remainder is 4". Ten inches is a bit longer than absolutely needed; but the extra length doesn't interfere--and maybe makes this tool useful on some other vehicle.
Four 1/2-13 nuts. All nuts are welded to channel steel, but the nut on the smallest piece has the threads removed by running the 1/2" drill bit through it before welding it to the channel--it just pops over the end of the bolt but does not thread onto it. That nut just prevents the small piece from sliding out of position.
Two 1/2-13 X 6" bolts
One 1/2-13 X 3" bolt The short bolt pictured can be cut down, it is inconveniently long.

One ~1/8 drill bit to make pilot holes for the 1/2 drill bit
One 1/2" drill bit to make 5 holes and remove the threads from one nut
3/8" or 1/4" drill motor for pilot bit
1/2" drill motor for 1/2 drill bit
Weld nuts to channel as shown. With all threaded nuts on top of the channel, the welds are not critical--just keeps 'em from turning; or from getting lost when the tool is rattling around in the tool box.
The heat of welding slightly distorted the nuts, I ran a 1/2-13 tap through the three nuts with threads.

Spring compressor painted and pretty. [EDIT--note that I have changed the bolts, the end ones are not threaded all the way]
http://hbassociates.us/W-Spring01.jpg


Compressor installed on right side. Center screw jacks up spring.
http://hbassociates.us/W-Spring02.jpg


Have to be careful to NOT jack spring up so high that it jams the end of the spring against the bottom of the strut housing. I can imagine spring damage if it's forced up too high.
http://hbassociates.us/W-Spring03.jpg


I cleaned out all the gravel and loose rust; and knocked loose rubber from the original spring pad off of the spring.
http://hbassociates.us/W-Spring04.jpg


New spring pad taps in pretty easily. Does not quite push in by hand.
http://hbassociates.us/W-Spring05.jpg


See how the lips on the bottom of the pad hug the hub carrier?
http://hbassociates.us/W-Spring13.jpg

The compressor in place after the pad is installed. I painted a thin film of grease on the spring and pad contact surfaces, but I don't think that's critical--and may just be a trap for road grit. Nothing left to do on this side but to unscrew three bolts and remove tool.
http://hbassociates.us/W-Spring06.jpg


Markings on the aftermarket pad. No, it's not made BY Moog, but it may come packaged in a Moog or NAPA or Advance Auto or CarQuest box. Smooth side goes against spring, ribbed side goes down.
http://hbassociates.us/W-Spring07.jpg

http://hbassociates.us/W-Spring08.jpg


The original equipment rubber pad--slightly worn.
http://hbassociates.us/W-Spring09.jpg

http://hbassociates.us/W-Spring10.jpg


And the OEM rubber pad as you might find it on your vehicle--partially separated from the spring. I used the hammer and a long pry-bar as a chisel to remove the pad. Use caution, you do NOT want to gouge the spring in the process of separating it from the rubber pad.
http://hbassociates.us/W-Spring11.jpg

http://hbassociates.us/W-Spring12.jpg

[jimmyfloyd]

Wow! That's some great information. Someone from the site should make a PDF of that post and put it into Tech Info.

Schurkey (http://www.w-body.com/member.php/2210-Schurkey): Maybe you would consider Renting out that tool. I know it seems easy enough to make, but many people won't have that option available. If you could rent it for like $15-20 shipped to the renter, then the renter pays to ship it back, you would probably help out a lot of people. If not, PM me if you want to sell it, and I might...

[Schurkey]

Wow! That's some great information.
[Elvis Voice]Thankyew, thankyew verra much. [/Elvis Voice]


Schurkey (http://www.w-body.com/member.php/2210-Schurkey): Maybe you would consider Renting out that tool. I know it seems easy enough to make, but many people won't have that option available. If you could rent it for like $15-20 shipped to the renter, then the renter pays to ship it back, you would probably help out a lot of people. If not, PM me if you want to sell it, and I might...
$20 rental plus return shipping? Gonna be nearly a $30 deal.

I'll have my second car fitted with the spring pads tomorrow or Tuesday; I guess the spring compressor will be "available" after that. I need to check with the Post Office because I think shipping cost is a make-or-break deal on this. If this can ship in the ~$6 priority mail envelope, things are looking up. If it's gonna take a ~$11 box, I think there's no way folks will pay that much.

On the other hand, if I make a few changes to help cut costs--and the Post Office is agreeable--I could conceivably SELL these things for ~$35 including shipping. Specifically, I need to find out if "ordinary" bolts will work instead of the fully-threaded bolts, and I need to be flexible with the design (potentially substituting bar stock or angle stock for the channel steel; I built the thing using a leftover "scrap" piece of metal...and next time it may be a two-foot section of bar stock instead of channel. The advantage to selling it outright is that there's no return shipping fee.

Personally, I don't think there's going to be too much interest...but I've been wrong before.

I'll update when I get shipping cost and have had a chance to try the different bolts.

[virtuetovice]

I'd be interested in one of those. :thumbsup:

[Schurkey]

Finished the second Lumina today. Actually had MORE problems with it than the first one. I think I've figured out why some folks have to beat the living crap out of the nylon pads to get 'em to snap into place.

The end of the leaf spring may not be centered on the iron casting; and it becomes trapped in place by the hub carrier. There is no room for it to move upward so the pad can slide in. I poked a tapered pry-bar between the spring and the rear lateral arm; I don't know if I moved the spring or the hub carrier--but--with the spring out from under the edge of the iron casting, the nylon block snaps in MUCH more easily!

This is the tip of the spring, catching on the iron casting. See how it isn't centered in the casting--too far to the rear.
http://hbassociates.us/W-Spring14.jpg

The spring compressor works just fine with the shorter bolts. It will fit into a USPS Priority Mail envelope. PM me for payment details; the first person who actually sends money BUYS THIS SPRING COMPRESSOR FOR $35 delivered to any USPS address in the USA.

The SECOND and THIRD people who send money get a slightly modified version in that the channel iron will be just a little smaller, so as to ship more easily. Just as functional; but a bit more compact.

The fourth person will be advised as to exact construction; as stated above "the design may change based on available materials".